By Bruce Fairley (editor)

Foreward by Sid Marty

1994

Review by Ron Dart:

The unique and distinctive Canadian mountaineering tale is a relatively short one in comparison to the much older mountaineering traditions from other parts of the world, but it is a drama worth the telling.

Canadian Mountaineering Anthology was published in 1994, so much of the period of time covered was from the early 1890s to the initial years of the 1990s. Much occurred in Canadian mountaineering in those 100 years, and Bruce Fairley has done exquisite yeoman’s labour in bringing to the table many of the memorable mountaineering events in Canada. The ‘Foreward’ by Sid Marty, as anticipated, is short but Marty at his suggestive best. Although Canadian Mountaineering Anthology left the publishing tarmac almost 20 years ago, it was a first ascent classic in the genre. Few were the books in the latter half of the 20^th century that threaded together the larger historic view of the Canadian mountaineering tradition---other books have surpassed the breadth and depth of Canadian Mountaineering Anthology, but Fairley must be applauded for pioneering this early route.

Canadian Mountaineering Anthology is divided into 15 chapters: 1) Pioneers, 2) Exploration, 3) Accidents, 4) A.O. Wheeler and the Alpine Club of Canada, 5) Classic Ascents, 6) Controversies, 7) Big Walls, 8) Canada, Ethics and Ice Axes, 9) Hard Routes in the Rockies, 10) The Culbert Era in the Coast Mountains, 11) Trip Reports, 12) Personalities, 13) Traverses: Mountaineering in the Horizontal Mode, 14) Rucksack and 15) Canadians Abroad. Each of the titles of the chapters (and the content of them) highlights the fact that Fairley is taking a more comprehensive read of the Canadian mountaineering tradition than most do----there is a probing breadth that is most commendable. The black/white photos

In the tome, though few, are a visual pleasure worth more than a hasty glance.

Mountaineering historians and archeologists are slowly emerging on the research and writing scene. I have little doubt that when such mountain sleuths are in search of engaging material that tells the Canadian mountaineering tale in a suggestive manner, Canadian Mountaineering Anthology: Stories from 100 Years at the Edge , will be a must read archive and fount of information. This well wrought literary urn is, at the present time, one of the five top books on the history of Canadian mountaineering and should be in the libraries of those with an interest in the fascinating and compelling Canadian mountaineering journey.

Berg Heil

Ron Dart